from BC with love

Whiteswan lake, B.C

If I were to tell you I was going on a road trip with Kestrel, what you may imagine is long days in the car with a bird of prey buckled in next to me. We'd get out to stretch our limbs next to large fields where Kess could keep herself sharp by hunting mice, lizards and other small birds and when she was full, she would find her way back to my shoulder.

As dreamy as that sounds, that simply isn't the case. When I talk about Kestrel, who I'm referring to is the curly haired bundle of joy that found the Spyker family in grade 11. A Kestrel who I can ask any biology related question to and somehow always has the answer, and my partner in crime for this trip through the most Beautiful British Colombia.

Our first day started early, with gray clouds making up the sky as drops of rain gently fall atop a waking world. We packed the car with everything we needed to carry us high into the mountains and deliver us safely back to coast, where the sea calls and the trees stand tall.

We were leaving from Grand Forks -a small town in southern B.C that I visit every year in the summer- and driving northeast, making small steps to reach Kess's family in Canmore. As we followed the road, we passed wildlife, rocked out, and stretched our legs in small towns consisting of good book stores and cute cafes.

What lay under our tires quickly turned from smooth asphalt to bumpy gravel as we got off the beaten path and headed towards our campsite. The road carried us up the mountain and past natural hot springs that paralleled a freezing mountain river. As we rounded a corner, we simultaneously let out a gasp of awe as a freshly snow topped mountain starred us down from where he stood, peeking above the clouds.

When arriving at our campsite, we were greeted by another Kestrel (the bird this time) perched atop the wooden B.C parks sign that read 'Whiteswan lake Provincial Park'. It seemed as though he had been expecting us.

Without needing to complete the customary 'scope out all the available sites' lap around the camp, we knew our site as soon as we saw it. Our new home was a waterfront property with great views of the mountain and our own private beach on the lake. But before we were able to put our feet up and soak in the views, we found ourselves popping up the tent, changing into our bathing suits and heading back to the hot springs we passed on our way up. There we soaked, made friends, enjoyed the cool mountain air and were informed to the fact that the fire ban had been lifted earlier that day, score!

The sun was on her way down when we pulled back into camp and had begun to light up everything it touched. So naturally, we grabbed all that we needed. Our hands were full of snacks, crib and everything necessary for a warm cup of tea

The mountain that towered before us begged for attention so that is what we gave it. The clouds faded in and out of view and we watched the light of yet another ending bring such beauty into a world that will soon be swallowed by darkness. As swiftly as the night came, so did the cold and we sat huddled around our first fire of the season with friends we met at the hot springs. Over time, the fire grew dim and exhaustion befell us so goodbyes were said and teeth were brushed.

Kess and I took some time to stare at the billions of stars occupy the otherwise vacant sky and as we stared in awe, we giggled to ourselves about all the beauty that has already found us and it is only our first day. With that, we crawled into the tent at let the sounds of the world carry us to sleep.

When we woke the next day, we found that as we slept, the fog crept in and teased us with all that lies beneath. Our day started with a bang as we leapt out of bed and made a lightning round of coffee and tea before racing the rest of the world to the hot springs and boy were we lucky! It wasn't until we were making our way up the stairs and back to the car that we saw our first faces of the day.

The adventure that found us today was complete with the inflation of the paddle board, trudging through forests, swimming across lakes and battling with a relentless wind on our paddle back that forced us back into the woods where we carried the board back to camp. For a brief moment, we were able to take a breather before getting back into the car to continue exploring. We followed roads that led to nowhere and those that followed winding rivers.

"Horse poo!" I exclaimed, eyes gleaming with the possibility of a horse. Kess agreed it best that we follow wherever the trail led and before we knew it, the road had taken us deep down onto a property home to barking dogs and the head of a moose that hung like a trophy above the door.

We turned down our music and exchanged a look of uncertainty as an older fella in cowboy boots made his way over to our car. "This here's a huntin' lodge" he said and we explained, through stifled giggles that we had been simply following the trail of horse poop and wound up here and we would soon be out of his hair. For the only reason the gate was open in the first place was due to the anticipated arrival of his buddies who had just finished their hunting trip. Instead, he was graced with the presence of two girls who don't even eat meat.

We then headed back home and enjoyed an evening complete with mac and cheese, crib, the lake and huddling around the campfire talking about nothing and everything.

Tonight, the sky was wide open. If I looked one way, I could make out a bow and arrow, looking elsewhere I found Orion and behind me was the big dipper. The size of the sky tonight made the mountain look so small and made me feel like a fly on the wall.

I lived a day one dreams of over and over again

Tomorrow we hit the road.

Canmore, AB

This morning, we slept in till 8, had our last cup of coffee and breakfast with the lake and began taking down our camp, full of excitement for the day that lie ahead. Our first stop was Invermere where we took our time in a cafe, celebrated local artists, paid visits to any thrift shop in the area and paid our dues at the bakery. Once we were finally satisfied, we jumped in the car and were on our way to Canmore!

Let me tell you a little something about Kestrel and I, we are the kind of gals whose only requirements for a car are that it starts, stops, is down to get dirty and has a bangin' sound system. The car were taking on this trip is all that and more, we are able to individually control our temperature, our seats go up, down, forward and backward, the sound system doesn't mess around and the car makes no rattles or pops! Every time we get back into the car we feel like royalty.

Our drive today did not fall short of beauty, we passed through the Kootenays and chased rivers so blue they seemed to mock the sky. We were also faced with the devastation leftover from the fires that have torn through here over the years, graveyards of what was once bursting with life is now nothing but skeletons. There are however wildflowers blooming amidst the devastation, proving once again that even after being left with nothing, life finds a way.

Once we arrived in Canmore, we dropped our bags at Kess's aunts place and she took me for a walk through the bush and along the river. As we walked, Kess told me stories of this place in the winter and I imagined the silence that finds this place as the snow falls. The mountains towered above us in every direction and bear tracks decorate the ground below.

Tomorrow we hike!

Kananaskis Country, AB

Today started early, with the sound of our alarms aggressively taking us out of dreamland and into the real world. We had packed most of our gear last night so all we needed to do was brush our teeth, change our clothes, put on some sunscreen and head to the bakery for a game of crib and some fuel before a day lost in the mountains.

As we hiked, we followed the creek, admired the wildflowers, Kess taught me about the life that surrounds us and, as a slight breeze ruffled through the trees, I lifted my arms to let my pits air out. Once we were above the trees, we ate our chickpea salad sandwiches and shared an ice cold beer we carried up in a thermos. The sounds of the birds filled the space around us and the world danced as the bees and butterflies work hard around us, bouncing from flower to flower.

When we arrived back at Blaudi (The name we have given the car, a blue Audi), we weren't quite ready to head back to Canmore, so we went on another walk through a dried up river bed where we found climbers galore and an abundance of rock sculptures. Once all was said and done, we headed back and spent the evening huddled around the campfire.

Thank you for having us Canmore, I'll miss you.

Yoho National Park + Mami Suzanne

It's time start heading back West. Todays drive is one of my favorites, saying goodbye to Alberta and getting on highway 1 straight through the Rockies and back into B.C where e will spend the next few days with Kestrels Grandma!

Our first stop was Takakawa falls in Yoho National Park, As I stood at it's base, I closed my eyes and felt as the mist hit my face and the force of it's power blew wind through my hair, awakening all of me. Who needs that morning coffee when you can get a face full of water fall! When our time there came to an end, we drove to Emerald Lake.

If there is one thing you should know about me, it's the fact that Yoho is one of my favorite places in the whole world. It is a truly special place and any opportunity I have to visit, I take it, every time it feels like the first.

As we exited off the highway and got on the road to the lake, we were met with bumper to bumper traffic to get into the parking lot and a traffic controls person turning cars away at the gate. As we creeped closer and closer to what felt like inevitable disappointment, I began to feel the warm welling of tears in my eyes but, to our surprise, we were one of the first people in line to be turned towards the lake instead of away. Kess and I shared a sigh of relief and a wave of excitement as we scored the best parking spot in the lot.

Our plan was to inflate the paddle board and explore the park that way but just as we were about to touchdown in the water, a parks employee advised us against it. So instead, we walked the loop. The water of the lake is so strikingly blue and the mountains that surround it reach for the sky, all one wants to do here is get lost.

Leaving Yoho, we made a pit stop in the town of Golden for a coffee and a snack before a long rest of the day full of giggles, bangers, and many hours in the car. The road took us through Glacier National Park, the Revelstoke A&W drive through, and to many roadside restrooms.

Far too often, I have found myself looking out the window only to find a graveyard of trees, dried up rivers, and habitat lost in order to make room for concrete jungles. It is so hard to see a place so special, so beautiful and so rich being destroyed by those who have the power to save it. Despite it all, at the end of the day, we all know that nature will find a way. The only question is will we?

Pavilion Lake, B.C

There is so much beauty in getting out of the routine, eating when hungry, swimming when hot, and sleeping when tired. What a life!

After a few days of Family time in Kamloops, we are back on the road and are spending the next two nights off the highway at Pavilion lake! I remember a few years ago when Kess, my sister, Rachel, and I had stopped here to stretch our legs and being so taken back by the glory of this place. To be able to spend more than 15 minutes here is a dream come true! After we set up our camp, we immediately changed into our bathing suits and b-lined it to the water. I swam around the lake, found a waterfall on the other side, did handstands on the paddle board and watched as a garder snake swallowed a dead fish.

Kess and I followed it all the way down the bank and then it slithered right up to me and let me give it a little pat on the head! We named it Ssam the snake.

As the afternoon faded to evening, we ate a dinner of Annie's pasta next to the lake and then parked it by the fire where we stayed for the rest of the night, laughing and cursing white rabbits. When the stars came out, there wasn't a single cloud blocking our view and it was warm enough to sleep without a fly on our tent so naturally, we crab walked around the campsite trying to find the best possible spot to put our tent for the best view of the stars.

When the fire died down, we snuggled into bed to watch the sky and drift off to the sound of grasshoppers, the distant waterfall and the occasional jump of a fish. Oh, the many sounds of the world.

Tomorrow is up for interpretation.

Cache Creek, B.C

We must have been exhausted from our relaxing day on the beach yesterday because we slept in till 9:30, only waking to the sun shining through the tent. We got up, made our breakfast to go and sat by a different lake to enjoy it.

The plan for today was to visit the nearby Historic Hat Creek Ranch, a preserved site along the Caribou Wagon Road that dates back to as early as the 1860's. It was pretty neat to take a stroll back through time and plus, they had horses so I was a happy camper! After the ranch, we went to a farmers market where we bought tons of fresh veggies and an ice cream cone for the rode back to camp.

Squamish, B.C

This road trip has been a dream. The weather has been perfect, our campsites have been unreal and he vibes have been high. There is non stop laughter, singing, and a genuine appreciation for one another, the world and this adventure.

The day was spent on the road, starting with a bittersweet goodbye to Pavilion Lake (one of the only lakes in Canada with fresh water coral! How cool is that!) and ending buried deep in the forests of Squamish. Along the way we stopped in Pemberton and Whistler to parooze thrift stores and to be overwhelmed with tourists, we also stumbled upon Bread by Ed, a plant based sourdough bakery that had us drooling as soon as we walked through the door. It was heavenly.

Tonight, we are staying at Paradise Valley campground and what a paradise it is. As we were arriving, the road ahead took us through GIANT maples that reach high above and do a damn good job at making you feel like a needle in a haystack. Driving into camp, we were greeted by a rustic cabin that stirred the same feeling as arriving home. After we made our beds, we took a walk on the other side of the tracks and followed the river through dense forest. As we walked, we stepped over leaves bigger than our faces, passed climbers (classic Squamish), and found the base of a tree near the river to enjoy this time with.

As the sun began its descent from our sky, it light up the world around us and painted the world golden. There is something so unique and special about being in a forest at this time a day. With the coming darkness it's as though everything seems more alive, like the river that sat at my feet. There is a spotlight on two fish underneath the glass, dancing in the current that lay below. Perhaps they too were soaking up the final moments with the sun.

The Sunshine Coast, B.C

Well it's official, Kestrel and I have lost the plot. We are sweaty, stinky and hysterical but I am having the time of my life. Today we are driving + taking the ferry over to the Sunny Coast! On our way out of Squamish, we passed a bike race and said our hello's to many friendly faces at the farmers market where we stocked up in veggies, sweet treats, and coffee.

The ferry over was beautiful, we sat on the sun deck, read our books and watched the world go by as we passed island after island. A beautiful day to be on the water, and a beautiful day to be alive. When we docked in Langdale, we preformed the entire pitch perfect soundtrack and blessed the ferry crew with our indescribable talent as we drove off the boat and towards our campsite - the green zone.

The green zone is a beautiful campsite hidden in the trees and we are the only two here! We have Adirondack chairs, a sheltered cooking and eating area, and a lit up path to the bathroom. What more could we ask for!

As the end of day drew near, we drove to Sechelt to drink a beer and play a game of crib at the wobbly canoe before making a hot cup of tea on the beach as the sun went down. It felt like the coast was welcoming us back home with a sunset that turned everything pink. It was wonderful.

Sunshine Coast, B.C

This morning, I woke to the sound of a rooster off in the distance and the morning sun lighting up the forest around me. I lay there and watched another day begin as the world sang its morning song. It was the perfect start to my day.

Once Kess was awake, we made huevos rancheros and suffered the consequences that come with eating corn that has been sitting in a warm car for one day to many. We then drove around Gibsons looking for a market of any kind and when we couldn't find one, we set off to explore an old growth forest, smugglers cove provincial park, and then back to Gibsons to visit vintage and book shops.

The book I have been reading is about an old Jasper park ranger who tells stories of his many years exploring the back country with his horse. In it, there were many stories of aggravated grizzly bears dragging people into rivers and clawing faces off so, of course Kess and I have been extra bear safe this trip but tonight, I decided to read the newspaper and as I flipped to the first page, I discovered that there had been a grizzly spotted in Gibsons and it had been showing predatorial behaviors. Kess and I had a good nervous chuckle about that and then proceeded to skittishly escort each other to the outhouse.

Tomorrow we head back to the island.

Tofino, B.C

Well, here we are, at the last stop on this wonderful adventure. It feels strange because throughout this whole road trip I feel as though I have been scouting out the province for the next place I would like to explore and the place that has pulled me the most is right here on the island.

We are here for two days, camping at Surf Grove, where the beach, Cox Bay, is a short walk away and as you're just about to touch the sand there lies an off grid coffee van. I never want to leave!

Our journey here was long, we started at our campsite on the sunshine coast and from there we took two ferries and spent 6 hours driving but it wasn't too bad as the views were spectacular. When our knees cramped up from sitting for too long, we would simply pull over and enjoy that west coast air.

On our first day here started how the rest of our mornings here would, with a stroll to the beach, stopping for a hot drink on our way, of course. As we sipped, we wandered the beach, watching surfers catch the morning waves and petting dogs as they passed us by. We then made our way back to camp for a breakfast of crackers and tapenade, the rest of the day was spent laughing, drinking tea and huddling under the poncho blanket.

From Surf Grove, if you walk to the end of the left side of the beach, you're able to hike yourself up to a viewpoint with surreal views of the Bay. As you leave the beach and head into the trees, you're immediately taken back by it's sheer beauty. The trees tower above you as the ground beneath your feet explodes with life, there are mushrooms the size of your head, and tree roots you can climb, life is everywhere!

As we hiked up, we snacked on Salal berries, thanked the trees, and stopped to watch a Steller's Jay as it sat perched on a branch before us and a snake crossed the path at our feet.

When we arrived at the top, I was at a loss of words and suddenly overwhelmed with emotion. The mountains peered above clouds, everywhere we looked we were met with greens and blues, and the view went on forever. The trees, each so unique and mangled from the wind standing strong despite all the years of enduring these harsh conditions. Kess told me that some of these trees are likely to be as old as the ones in Cathedral grove -an area of old growth trees on Vancouver Island-, yet look vastly different because they are the 'defenders of the grove' . They take the brute of the weather, allowing life to flourish elsewhere. Pretty amazing isn't it?

As we sat up there, huddled under the poncho blanket, munching on some cheezies, a massive bald eagle emerged from the cloud of mist that was covering the tops of the trees and soared past us, gliding in the wind above a forest of so many greens. It's all in the art of being.

Tofino, B.C

This morning we woke to the pitter patter of raindrops falling on the tarp that hung over our tent. After lazing in bed for a little bit longer, I busted out my rain jacket for the first time this trip and got dressed before walking down the beach, patiently sipping my London fog. When we got back to camp, we made blueberry pancakes for breakfast with butter and maple syrup. As we decorated the pancakes, we played several rounds of blueberry Pictionary and tried our hand at the perfect pancake flips.

Once our bellies were full, we wandered through Tofino while gently being kissed by the rain. We found ourselves in bookstores, artisan shops, the Roy Henry Vickers art gallery, cafes and an incredible, quirky bakery. As Kess and I like to say, the best way to know a town is through their bookstores, cafes, and thrift stores. Tofino nailed it.

We then made our way to Ucluelet after making a necessary stop at Tacofino -a mouth watering taco food truck in Tofino-, it was my first time here after hearing everyone and their dog raving about it for years and let me tell you, it lives up to the hype. Its got crunch, its got guac, there is an explosion of flavors that take you out of this world and into Ratatouille's, and there was -a totally respectable- 30 minute wait for food.

Once we had our burritos in hand, we hit the road to Ukee! We stopped at the light house to enjoy our lunch with a view and as we arrived, the clouds were clearing so we got to sit in the sun by the ocean. Hell yeah. That was pretty much it for Ukee besides our typical tour of a town so we found ourselves a rock to sit on and watch surfers drop in, smack the lip and whapam until we were hungry enough for dinner.

For our last supper, we packed up some warm soup, tea, and veggies for a sunset picnic on the beach and enjoy watching the world move on around us. That's what I love about the beach, when you're this close to the crashing sea, it is all you can hear, it drowns out any noise around you. It's the closest I'll get to watching the world on mute.

The sunset was fascinating, we were as far west as we could go and perfectly aligned with the sun whose sky has been cleared of clouds and painted with bright oranges, pinks, and yellows. Once the Sun had set, there was a mist cast over the beach casting a spotlight on the surfers chasing the last of the daylight before returning back to land. We said goodbye for now and returned to camp to huddle around a fire before returning back to the beach to watch as the stars decorated the sky. The moon was high and bright, shining above us casting shadows on the world around us and sparkling on the ocean. I felt alive.

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Today we head back down the Island and go home. You can probably imagine how our day started - with a walk to the coffee van for a muffin before packing up camp for the last time. The plan was to stay in Tofino until Tacofino opened so we could get road burritos so we mosied around some beaches and went to the bakery where we got a beautiful loaf of French bread what was still warm. If it could, it would've hugged us right back. We sat for a game of crib on the patio and all of a sudden, we heard a knocking on the window behind us. We turned around to be met with two girls around our age playing their own game o

f crib! Kess kicked my butt, we grabbed our burritos and hit the road.

We have been in such a state of denial about our road trip being over, we pretty much moped the whole way home, except for when we got out to stretch our legs at Cathedral Grove and finish our burritos as we waked.

Now, we are sitting back home with camping gear scattered throughout the house and having just finished a self care night consisting of eating that entire loaf of bread. I love being an adult.

These last few weeks were full of laughter, love and luck, I am so grateful to have made these memories with such a good friend.

Till next time Kessy,

Here+Therin